Sound Aversion?? Sounds fancy, right? Not quite. Basically, it’s making loud noises when your dog does something you don’t like.
Aversion therapy is a fancy word for punishment. Now I’m not talking shock collars here, in behaviorist terms a punisher is something that causes behavior to decrease. So when you make a loud sound, and your dog stops barking, that sound is a punisher.
Since walking Bailey and Maddie, and noticing Maddie’s bad habit of barking, I’ve been using “sound aversion” to try to get her to stop. And imagine that, I’ve seen improvement! When I’ve walked them at least…
What I’ve been doing is very simple. The punisher I use is a sound, an aversive one, a sound that Maddie doesn’t like to hear…loud enough for her to hear me over her own barking, kind of from the back of the throat, when she starts to bark I use “EEENNHH” or something to that effect (try to avoid using a word, because if it ever comes up in another situation where your dog is not misbehaving you might confuse him). You could use a loud clap, or I’ve also read articles that recommend a soda can with marble or pebbles taped inside. Personally, I find the sound I make to be the easiest to keep consistent, no props needed and you can do it hands free!
The most important part of this training method, as always when training, is to be consistent! As soon as the bark starts, make the sound, and continue until it stops, when you would then give lots of praise. Now, you don’t have to use treats! The pleasant sound of your voice and the positive energy you give off is praise enough. Although treats are always nice, it’s much easier (and healthier) to be consistent with a hands free, prop free method.
Sound Aversion doesn’t have to stop with barking, you can use it when your dog jumps, eats something he shouldn’t, or goes somewhere you don’t want him to…any undesirable behavior. It might not be easy at first, and while on those first walks with Maddie when I first started using the aversive sound I’ll admit it was a little obnoxious because I had to do it so often. But now it works right away! Another important factor is salience, you want the dog to notice the sound right away. Don’t start out quiet and work your way up, be loud enough for him to hear you the first time, and continue at that level consistently, and as soon as the bad behavior begins.
Don’t let your dog bark for two minutes and then decide you don’t like it anymore, he won’t understand what your asking him to stop. Make the sound at the first sign to let him know you don’t want him to continue the behavior, since it is most likely to evolve into something much more undesirable. As soon as I noticed Maddie’s perked ears, increased breathing and low growl I started the sound and she would stop and never escalate to barking. These signals are called antecedents, and it’s important to figure out what the antecedents are to a behavior to “nip it in the bud” and prevent the behavior from ever starting.
This procedure might sound familiar, it’s very similar to clicker training. Except it’s going in the opposite direction. There are no props, and no weight gain either. Also, you’re much more likely to think of doing something about bad behavior than good. Of course, you still want to use lots of reinforcement for good behavior, but using words and body language. Dogs are incredibly responsive to your eyes and your voice. A favorite phrase is “catch them being good”, and reward them then. While walking, if your dog is by your side, walking calmly, not sniffing or pulling, a simple “good boy!” and pat on the head, not too enthusiastic to get him riled up, but just enough to let him know you notice when he’s good too.
So you don’t have to be in “training mode” or take hours out of your day to work with your dog. Simple, quick techniques like sound aversion are easy to use and very effective as long as your consistent!
